Savon des Grecs – Soap of the Greeks (Source: Collection of the National Historical Museum, inv. no. 837)
Nineteenth-century Philhellenism was more than just a political movement; it was a popular trend that influenced literature, the arts, fashion, and commerce. During the years of the Greek War of Independence, it gained immense popularity in Europe, particularly in France, leading to the production of everyday household items featuring scenes from the Greek Revolution and the lives of the Greeks [1].
Thus, dinnerware, vases, clocks, and other objects or products were decorated with philhellenic scenes, circulated in the markets of 19th-century Europe, and found their way into the homes of Europeans of that era.
The Ypsilantis perfume
One of the most curious philhellenic items to appear in Europe—and specifically in France—during the Greek Revolution was a bar of soap with a “Greek scent.” The soap was called “Savons des Grecs – Alexandre Ypsilanti” and was manufactured between 1821 and 1823 by the company Dissey & Piver. The packaging featured an image of Alexander Ypsilanti on the outside, along with the product name and the company’s name.
An image of the packaging can be found in A. Van Den Brule’s book “L’ Orient Hellène” (1907), in which he presents the product’s label as a characteristic example of the philhellenic movement in 19th-century Europe [2]. A label for this distinctive philhellenic soap is housed in the extensive collections of the National Historical Museum (13 Stadiou Street, Athens) under catalog number 837.
The L.T. Piver perfumery
The French perfume company “L.T. Piver” was founded in 1774 and is one of the oldest perfume houses still in operation today. It was founded on 8 July 1774 by perfumer Michel Adam and was originally housed in a small shop in Paris, at 8 Rue de Lombards. The company’s original name was “A la reine des fleurs,” which subsequently remained as the company’s subtitle [3]. In addition to perfumes, it sold powders, lotions, and soaps.
In the second half of the 1800s, Pierre-Guillaume Dissey (1755–1823), M. Adam’s cousin, succeeded him. Dissey then hired Louis Toussaint Piver (1787–1877) as an apprentice, recognizing his expertise in chemistry. The two men joined forces in 1813 and ran the company together until Dissey’s death in 1823. The company was headquartered in Paris, and its offices were located at 111–113 Rue Saint-Martin [4]. Until Dissey’s death, the company was called “Dissey and Piver,” but in 1823, the name was changed to “L.T. Piver” [5].
The interior of the Piver store in Paris. Color lithograph from around 1870 from the collection of the Musée International de la Parfumerie, Grasse. (Source: ltpiverperfumes.blogspot.com)
Starting in the 1860s, the Piver company had factories in the La Villette district in northeastern Paris, as well as in Grasse, a town on the French Riviera [6]. In the late 19th century, Jacques Rouché took over the management, the son-in-law of Louis Toussaint Piver, who sought to modernize the company and opened branches in various major cities around the world, such as Milan, London, New York, and others. It is worth noting that among L.T. Piver’s clients were the legendary theater and early film actress Sarah Bernhardt, the Bonaparte family, and others.
The Piver house was a pioneer in the field of cosmetics and perfumery. Some of its most famous fragrances were: Rêve d’Or, Pompéia, Héliotrope Blanc, and others. Its packaging featured beautiful floral designs inspired by the Czech painter and Art Nouveau artist Alphonse Mucha, while many of the bottles were produced by Baccarat, the renowned manufacturer of fine crystal [7].
After many years in business, the company ceased operations in 1973. In the decades that followed, it changed hands frequently until 2022, when it was purchased by businesswoman Nelly Chenelat [8]. Piver’s headquarters remain in Paris to this day.
Giorgos Giannikos
Bibliographical references:
[1] Kastriti, N. (2006). Greece in 1821 as Seen by the Philhellenes: French Philhellenic Works from the Collections of the National Historical Museum. Athens: Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece, pp. 127–139.
[2] Van Den Brule, A. (1907). L’Orient Hellène. Grèce-Crète-Macédoine. Paris: Félix Juven, p. 77.
[3] https://ltpiverperfumes.blogspot.com/p/history.html
[4] https://data.bnf.fr/fr/11869103/dissey_et_piver_paris/
[5] Briot, E. (2007). «Le parfumeur millionnaire», notable et industriel parisien du xixe siècle. Revue d’histoire du xixe siècle, 34, p. 129-143. doi: 10.4000/rh19.1352
[6] Lunel, A-B (1870). Guide pratique du parfumeur: dictionnaire raisonné des cosmétiques et parfums. Paris: Hetzel, p. 17-19.
[7] https://ltpiverperfumes.blogspot.com/p/history.html
[8] https://www.fusacq.com/buzz/lt-piver-dans-les-mains-de-nelly-chenelat-a232481_fr_
Additional bibliography:
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/L.T._Piver
